Introduction:
What? :
This demanding full one day off-road journey through the remote north western section of Death Valley National Park is a true adventure, combining dramatic views, interesting geological phenomena, moving rock mysteries and at some sections a serious test of your four-wheeling skills.
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The route that I describe descends from the volcanic fields of the Ubehebe Crater, crosses a dry lakebed of The Racetrack, and drives the rugged Lippincott mountain pass before descending down into the vast remote Saline Valley where you can find the Salt Lake and reaching to Saline Valley Warm Springs, a remote one of a kind desert oasis.
Important note on vehicle requirement:
For driving Lippincott mountain pass (from The Racetrack to Saline Valley Road, in both directions) a high-clearance 4x4 is mandatory for this route.
Off-road experience, sturdy tires (with at least one full-size spare), and an adequate supply of fuel, water, and food, paper and offline electronic maps, are non-negotiable.
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Where? :
The start of the offroad is at Ubehebe Crater. It is located in a remote north east area of Death Valley national park.
Drive north to Grapevine Ranger Station on Scotty's Castle road (North highway). From here keep driving 5.8 miles north on Ubehebe Crater road all the way to the parking lot.
When? :
The park is open year-round but summer months are extremely hot !
Winter months are the preferred time to visit here but they can bring snow in the high elevations and cold nights.
Check the forecast before you go.
Flash floods are a major hazard, and rain can quickly make dirt roads impassable or destroy sections of road.
Avoid canyons and washes during or after a storm.
Due note 1:
Fuel and Water: There are virtually no services on this entire route. Your vehicle must be capable of completing the drive and getting you back to a main road with fuel to spare. Carry a minimum of 2 gallons of water per person, per day, plus extra for the vehicle.
Due note 2:
Tires and Tools: Sharp rocks are the number one cause of breakdowns. Puncture-resistant, heavy-duty tires are necessary. Carry a full-size spare, a tire plug kit, a good air compressor, and the tools needed to change a tire on uneven terrain.
Towing from this remote location can be VERY expensive.
Due note 3:
Navigation and Communication: Cell service is non-existent in this remote area. Carry detailed paper maps, a compass, and a reliable GPS device. Consider a satellite communication device.
Due note 4:
Obtain a park map and follow all regulations. Do not drive off established roads or disturb historical sites.
Due note 5:
There are no restrooms or any other service at Ubehebe Crater parking.
Due note 6:
This drive is in the remote park section but usually you can see other cars on the road and there are almost always people at the warm springs.
Due note 7:
As always when hiking, there is very little shade anywhere in Death Valley so use sunscreen even in winter months.
Due note 8:
Saline Valley has a large population of wild burros and even larger populations of coyotes. Please do not leave any food out where they can get to it, or they will.
Due note 9:
There is no camping fee at Warm Springs.
My thoughts:
I have wanted to visit Saline Warm Spring for 25 years since I saw a short TV show about this place, and finally made it.
The offroad day drive was fun and challenging and pass through many interesting locations.
And as for Saline Warm Spring I was not disappointed; it was like nothing I’ve ever seen before, a real oasis in the desert and its remote and hard to get location only added to the experience.
I’m sure I will visit here again.
The Offroad Drive:
Below I will describe in high level this one full day of offroad drive as I did it, for more information on each location read the detailed blogs.
The offroad drive starting Point is at Ubehebe Crater.
Ubehebe Crater is the largest of a cluster of maar volcanoes in the region. A phreatomagmatic event blasted through the Earth's surface about 2,100 years ago, leaving behind a crater approximately half a mile wide and over 700 feet deep. The dark blanket of ejected rock and ash makes the surrounding landscape visibly different.
From the crater, the graded dirt and gravel Racetrack Road heads south.
This road is usually well maintained with a washboard surface and sharp, tire-puncturing rocks.
Take it slow and be prepared for a long, bumpy ride.
The road here climb a shallow pass and you can see large fields of Joshua Trees.
Teakettle Junction:
After 22 miles down Racetrack Road, you’ll reach Teakettle Junction.
This quirky landmark is marked by a simple wooden signpost covered entirely in teakettles of all shapes and sizes, left by visitors over the years.
Although this is a National Park It's an unofficial desert tradition and a popular photo stop before the scenery changes dramatically.
Just six miles south past the junction you will reach the Racetrack Playa.
The Racetrack is a perfectly flat, dry lakebed (or playa) famous for its sliding rocks.
Hundreds of rocks, some weighing hundreds of pounds, appear to have moved across the mud, leaving long, distinct trails etched into the surface. The rocks do not move often, and their tracks can last for years.
The many years mystery of how the large rocks move on a perfect flat surface was solved by researchers using GPS and time-lapse photography. The movement occurs when a rare combination of specific conditions is met: The playa must be flooded enough to form a thin layer of water; temperatures must drop low enough for this water to freeze into a thin sheet of ice; and then, on a sunny day, the ice must break up into large, floating panels. Finally, a light breeze is all it takes for the thin ice sheets to push the rocks in the ice across the slippery, wet mud, creating the trails.
Crucial Warning:
The playa surface is extremely fragile.
Driving on the Racetrack is strictly prohibited and will result in significant fines.
Do not walk on it when it is wet, as your footprints will damage the surface for years. When it is day there is no problem to walk over the dry lake.
Lippincott Pass and Road:
From Racetrack Playa the route continues south to the junction for Lippincott Road.
From here this is a true high-clearance 4x4 challenge that descends from Racetrack Valley down into Saline Valley.
This is not a long driving section, only 6.8 miles, but it can take a lot of time, depending on road conditions and traffic load (especially incoming cars).
Because in many sections this road is a single lane wide uphill traffic generally has the right-of-way. Always stop and look for incoming traffic.
The pass high point itself is not challenging at all, gentle drive and you start descending into the valley west of you.
Lippincott Road is probably one of Death Valley's more notorious off-road sections.
From the pass down it is an extremely steep, narrow, and winding shelf road.
Drive slowly, there are sections of loose rock, large embedded boulders, and potentially narrow ledges with sheer drop-offs.
There are some sections with very narrow rock pass and steps and also a narrow road with an intimidating cliff on its side.
Once passing the winding downhill section you will still have a long drive crossing many riverbeds that can also be challenging.
At the end of this drive you will reach Saline Valley Road.
Turn right (north west) to the direction of Salt Lake and Saline Valley Warm Springs.
If you turn left (south) you will be heading to climb Hunter Mountain ridge and the direction of highway 190.
I turned right.
Once you complete the challenging descent of Lippincott Road, you will connect with the main Saline Valley Road. Here the road is in much better condition and usually under park maintenance.
This road takes you past the historical salt marsh area, known as the Salt Lake, a large, desolate flat that was once the site of salt and borax mining.
You may see the remnants of the historic Saline Valley Salt Tramway, a remarkable early 20th-century engineering feat used to transport salt over the high Inyo mountains ridgeline.
To overcome the mountain ridge an electric aerial tram was constructed in 1911 to carry the salt 14 miles over the Inyo Mountains to a terminus northeast of Keeler in the Owens Valley.
The tram was the steepest ever constructed in the United States.
After passing the lake you will reach a road junction, where you need to turn right.
You will see the palm trees from far away and after crossing the shallow sand dunes your journey ends at this remote, clothing-optional oasis nestled in the vast desert landscape.
The warm springs feature several developed primitive soaking pools made of concrete or rock, with water temperatures typically ranging from 98∘F to 112∘F.
The springs are a stark contrast to the barren mountains you just crossed. Facilities are extremely rustic—vault toilets are available, but you must be entirely self-sufficient for water, food, and supplies.
This is the end of my day offroad drive.
The following day I drove Saline Valley Road south, over Hunter Mountain ridge (where it had snow from the night) and from there to highway 190.
For more information on each location in this trip or other amazing destinations in Death Valley National Park read my detailed blogs:
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