Nevada-Oregon Trip, Day 11: The Cliffs of Smith Rock, the Volcano of Bend, and the Cascade Lava Lakes

Waking up with the dawn inside my tent in the high desert of Smith Rock, and setting out for an incredibly diverse day that combines off-road driving, canyon hiking, local culture in Bend, and climbing back into the heart of snow-capped volcanoes and hidden lakes.

Morning Off-Road Drive and Hiking in Smith Rock State Park

I started the morning very early. Before the crowds began arriving at the park, I took advantage of the first light of sunrise for a challenging and enjoyable off-road drive on the dirt roads and hills located east of the park, soaking in the quiet desert and the unique views of the rock formations from a distance.

Smith Rock – Ancient Geology, a Climbing Icon, and a Tough 7.4-Mile Hike

After that refreshing morning off-road session among the hills east of the park, it was time for a close encounter with what is rightly considered one of the most impressive natural wonders of central Oregon.

Before hitting the trail, it is worth lingering a moment on the crazy geology that created this place.

The sheer, towering cliffs of Smith Rock, resembling giant fortress walls in shades of orange, brown, and gray, are evidence of dramatic volcanic activity that occurred here about 30 million years ago. The entire area was once a massive volcanic caldera. Powerful eruptions spat out astronomical amounts of ash and rock, which compressed under immense heat and pressure into solid "tufa" rock, topped with hard layers of basalt.

The entity that gave the place its final, sculpted design is the winding Crooked River. Over millions of years, the river patiently carved a deep canyon through the softer rock layers, leaving behind these sheer cliffs that now tower hundreds of feet above the water brushing their base.

These cliffs turned Smith Rock into the birthplace of modern sport climbing in the United States. Climbers from all over the world come here to test themselves on thousands of tough climbing routes, chief among them the legendary Monkey Face rock.

On my previous visit in the middle of summer, there were hundreds of climbers here, but on this trip, there were far fewer, perhaps because it is not yet the optimal season, even though it isn't nearly as hot as the summer.

But I came here to chew up the terrain on foot, and a serious, highly varied hiking route was waiting for me.

My track ultimately accumulated into a long loop of 7.36 miles with a substantial total elevation gain of 1,457 feet. The entire loop took me 3 hours of pure movement (and around three and a half hours including stops for photos and viewing).

I started the hike at the upper viewing plaza and descended along the organized path into the canyon toward the river channel. From there, I crossed the bridge and immediately began the most classic and famous climb in the park: the steep, grueling Misery Ridge Trail.

This trail does not show any mercy to the knees; it ascends sharply and directly up the cliff face via a series of stone steps and loose scree. As you gain elevation, the view of the perfect river bends beneath you opens up in an awe-inspiring way.

Even though the clock read only 9:00 AM, it was already hot.

Where was that blizzard from Mount St. Helens? Just a dim memory…

Instead of settling only for the standard loop along the highest ridgeline (at an elevation of about 3,360 feet), I chose to break away from the main trail and head out to a side viewpoint, isolated and beautiful, on the edge of an eastern spur.

This spot allowed me to look over the entire high desert valley and the rock ranges stretching in the background from a slightly different, lesser-known angle.

From there, I returned to the main axis, passed by the crazy sight of Monkey Face—the wild rock pillar that looks exactly like a monkey's head jutting over the abyss—and began a long, moderate descent via the Mesa Verdict Trail. This trail bypasses the back section of the cliff, slowly bringing you back down to the water level.

The final leg of the trek was a relaxed, flat, and pleasant walk along the River Trail, a lovely path that hugs the very edge of the winding riverbank at the base of the cliffs. From this low vantage point, I could look back up at the giant walls I had just traversed, see the tiny climbers looking like ants on the rock, and enjoy the quiet of the gently rushing water.

Ultimately, I climbed the final, steep ascent back to the parking lot and the jeep—tired and still scratched up from yesterday, but with a massive sense of satisfaction from a perfect morning hike.

The Old Railroad Bridge and Steelhead Falls

From Smith Rock, I continued on a short drive north and west toward the next points of interest along the area's canyons:

Oregon Trunk Railroad Bridge: I stopped for an impressive view of the massive, historic railroad bridge spanning the deep canyon of the Deschutes River. It is an impressive piece of engineering in the heart of a primordial landscape.

Steelhead Falls: From there, I moved on to the trailhead for Steelhead Falls. I set out on a short, beautiful walk along the exposed canyon until I reached the waterfalls rushing between black basalt rocks—a quiet, lovely spot that feels very different from the usual public crowds. It is not a mandatory trail, and it is fully exposed to the hot sun, but it is certainly beautiful, short, and not difficult.

Bend – Oregon's Capital of Hiking, Extreme Sports, and Microbreweries

From Steelhead Falls, I continued driving south and entered Bend, the central, vibrant city of central Oregon.

Since I had visited Bend several times in the past, this time it served primarily as a brief pass-through station, but you cannot drive through here without dedicating a few words to this crazy city.

Bend is without a doubt the beating heart and hiking hub of the entire region. It draws extreme sports and nature lovers from all corners of the earth thanks to an immense versatility of activities: crazy networks of mountain bike singletracks, countless foot paths and treks in the surrounding mountains, and whitewater rafting on the Deschutes River. One of the coolest things about this city is the fact that right inside the urban center, along the river cutting through town, you can see masses of locals and tourists paddling on SUPs or simply drifting enjoyably on large inner tubes in the cool water during summer days.

Beyond sports, Bend is a true powerhouse and a premier destination for craft beer lovers. The city is packed with excellent local microbreweries, chief among them the famous Deschutes Brewery, which, in our opinion, produces the best beer in the entire United States.

It is a perfect city for nightlife, good restaurants, and shopping. In the winter, it completely shifts its face and transforms into a bustling ski town, thanks to the ski resort of nearby Mount Bachelor, considered one of the best, largest, and highest-quality ski resorts in the American West.

On this visit, my first destination inside the city was Pilot Butte, a volcano that sits uniquely right in the middle of town.

I drove up the paved, winding road to the high summit, which grants a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the entire city spread out below and the chain of snow-capped Cascade peaks on the horizon. There was really good visibility of the entire range west of the city, from the mountains in the south all the way to Mount Hood in the north, and you could even see mountains up in Washington.

From there, I went down to the famous shopping and entertainment district, the Old Mill District, located right on the riverbank. This complex, which in the distant past functioned as the region's largest timber sawmill, was wonderfully converted architecturally into a beautiful open-air mall, with the old brick smokestacks of the factory still towering skyward.

I did a short loop along the river among the shops and restaurants, enjoying the pleasant, vibrant local atmosphere of the place.

Tumalo Falls

From downtown Bend, I turned west and began climbing with the vehicle up the road leading deep into the national forest, aiming to visit Tumalo Falls. I visited this spot 6 years ago, arriving in the early morning hours right at sunrise, and I remember that I came away with truly phenomenal, gorgeous photos. This time I arrived in the afternoon, and the light at this hour was less ideal and less flattering for dramatic waterfall photography.

I reached the parking lot at the Tumalo Falls Trailhead and set out on a fantastic 4-mile out-and-back hiking trail that follows the river channel and reveals a series of impressive waterfalls hidden in the forest.

The first and most famous of all is Tumalo Falls, standing right at the start of the trail.

The waterfall towers to a height of about 90 feet and plunges in a straight, entirely vertical, and impressive drop out of a wall of thick, old-growth forest, a classic postcard image of Oregon nature.

After enjoying the viewpoint, I continued marching up the path inside the forest.

After a light, pleasant walk along the water, you reach the second waterfall on the axis: Double Falls. True to its name, it is a beautiful sight of two waterfalls flowing one after the other over two successive rock shelves. I kept advancing with the trail deeper into the canyon, and after about 2 miles from the start of the hike, I reached a point where a short descent path cuts down directly to the third waterfall in the sequence: Middle Tumalo Falls.

This is definitely a comfortable and physically easy trail, yielding an insane payoff in the form of three different, powerful, and beautiful waterfalls in the quiet heart of the forest.

After enjoying the third waterfall, I turned around and marched the 2 miles back to the vehicle, ready for the climb up to the Cascade Lakes Highway.

Cascade Lakes National Scenic Byway

I returned to the vehicle and got onto the famous scenic highway that crosses the high lakes region. As I gained elevation, the desert landscape vanished and transformed back into mountain forests and loads of snow.

Mountain Viewpoints: I stopped at several stunning viewpoints looking out at the massive, snow-capped peaks of the Three Sisters and the impressive Mount Bachelor, which serves as a major ski resort.

Arriving at Lava Lake: I continued on a slow drive along the scenic corridor, making numerous viewing stops next to various lakes formed by ancient lava blockages, until I arrived toward evening at my camping spot for the 11th night: Lava Lake Campground. It sits inside the forest right on the edge of the quiet Lava Lake.

I paid for the campsite using the self-registration envelope ($28, if I recall correctly, though I'm not entirely certain), and got organized to sleep in the mountain cold ahead of continuing the route tomorrow.