Introduction:
What? :
Located in a remote
arid location, small Supai Village community, red-rock Havasu Canyon with
running water year around and the amazing waterfalls with blue and turquoise water
make this hike as one of the most beautiful places in the US and in my top all-time
favorite hikes.
Havasupai means
people of the blue-green waters, they received this name from the color of the river
passing through their small remote village near the Colorado River.
The spectacular
waterfalls and isolated community within the remote Havasupai Indian
Reservation attract thousands of visitors each year.
All visitors
must have a permit prior their arrival, I wrote extensive explanation below on
all different aspects of getting permit, hiking and camping in this amazing
location.
The population
of the Havasupai Tribe is around 600 people, living in the small Supai Village located
in Havasu Canyon. Tourism is their main source of living, this include
mules’ services, accommodation, stores and caffe.
Please respect the people, their traditions, request and regulation, you are visiting their home.
Where? :
Located on the south
rim of the Grand Canyon Colorado River.
The only access
to Supai Village is by walking or flying. No roads have ever been built here.
Related Blogs:
Driving instructions:
From Las Vegas:
drive to
Kingman, AZ and get on I-40 East. Take exit 53, turn left, and follow Route 66
east for 54 miles. Turn left onto Indian Highway 18 and continue 60 miles north
to the end of the road.
From Phoenix:
Drive to Ash
Fork, AZ and get on I-40 West. Take exit 123 to Seligman. Follow Route 66 for
30 miles. Turn right onto Indian Highway 18 and continue 60 miles north to the
end of the road.
Google Map Linkof the trailhead parking lot
The small town
of Peach Springs (highway 66) offers the nearest services to Havasupai. You can
find here hotel, gas, water, and a very limited selection of food.
Indian Highway
18 is 60 miles long and it pass through the large forest and high arid desert section
of the Colorado River south rim. The road passes through open cuttle range so
drive slowly.
During winter
you can expect snow.
There are
currently no public transportation options to/from the trailhead.
Gas:
The closest gas
stations is in Peach Springs (Highway 66) but it may not be open.
Make sure that
you fill your gas tank at Kingman or Seligman before entering highway 66.
This can be
total of 200 miles from I-40 to the trailhead and back.
When? :
The scenic
beauty of Havasu Canyon and waterfalls is awesome all year around but peak
tourist season is May through September.
Cooler months
of the year are probably the ideal time to visit with less people and it is not
so hot. If coming during the winter months, make sure you are comfortable to hike
and camp in near freeze conditions.
In the winter you
should expect to have snow on your way to the trailhead. The lower canyon
itself is warmer also during the winter months.
The summer
months can be very hot, and you need to plan your visit accordingly. Start your
hikes in and out the canyon as early as you can in the morning when it is much cooler,
and the trail is shaded. In any case bring a lot of water with you.
During summer
months, temperatures can reach up to 115 degrees. Trails into Supai will be
closed when the temperature exceeds 115 degrees.
The water
temperature is roughly 70 degrees all year long.
Permit related notes:
Reservations are required for
anyone who enters the Havasupai Indian Reservation. You must have a permit
before your visit.
During 2023 you
need to get permit via the cancellations process. People that already have a permit
but cancel it, releasing it back to other.
You need to
check each day at 8am (AZ) in your account website for campground reservations
available for transfer.
Permits are
taken up fast after becoming available, so check exactly at 8am for available slots.
Permit cost is
about fixed price $360 per person for 4 days and 3 nights.
For 2023 an
account with Havasupai Reservations is required to be create in:
https://www.havasupaireservations.com/
ALL visitors
(even if they are not a Trip Leader) must have an account on
HavasupaiReservations.com made PRIOR to arrival so that they have confirmed
their understanding of, and agreement with, Havasupai Rules and Laws.
There is only
ONE name on a Campground Reservation - and a reservation is only valid if the
person named on the reservation (the "Trip Leader") is present at the
Tourist Check-in Office with valid photo ID - otherwise the reservation is NOT
valid and will NOT be honored.
If a Trip
Leader is unable to be present at check-in, they may use the official Transfer
System here at HavasupaiReservations.com to transfer their reservation either
directly to a PATL or via the public Cancellation / Transfer List.
Reservations
are non-refundable, non-changeable, and non-transferable.
Campground
Reservation pricing is per person and includes all necessary permits, fees, and
taxes.
Campground
Reservations are only valid on and between the arrival and departure dates of
your Campground Reservation
As of 2023 you
need to get your visit permit at Grand
Canyon Caverns Hotel on
highway 66, 10 miles east of the city of Peach Springs.
The office is
open every day 8am to 5pm.
You can get the
permit the day before or on the day of your reservation.
You must have
the permit and personal hand wristbands to get to the trailhead.
During 2023 you
get the permits in Grand Canyon Caverns hotel, so you do not need to do check-In
at Supai Village.
There is road
checkpoint for permits, 5 miles before the end-of-the-road parking lot.
You need a
permit to hike, the permit is not only for spending the night.
I saw that it
is not allowed to hike in and out at the same day without staying one night at
the campground. This is probably the same if you are using the Helicopter ride
in both directions.
Night hiking is
NOT permitted.
You must pay
for a minimum of three nights, even if you plan to stay only two nights.
Supai Village Lodge:
As of April 17,
2023: Due to construction delays, the Havasupai Lodge is not ready for tourists
as we had hoped.
We expect the
Havasupai Lodge to be open for tourists in July 2023.
Lodge rate of
$1,980 per room for 4 days/3 nights. Each room has 2 queen beds that sleeps up
to 4 adults.
General notes:
Havasupai is a
sovereign Native American nation with its own rules, customs, laws, and way of
life - please be respectful of the land, the people, and your fellow visitors.
Any violation
of any Rule or Law may result in immediate termination of all permits for
everyone included on all related Campground Reservations.
This area is outside
the boundary and jurisdiction of Grand Canyon National Park.
Tribe requires
all visitors wear a mask while in Supai Village public areas, including the
store and the café. Please bring your own mask.
There is no
cell phone coverage at Hualapai Hilltop trailhead, when hiking in the canyon,
at the campground and down the river. There is cellphone reception in Supai village
itself.
You can buy
food and drinks in Supai village general store or caffe or at the few places selling
food and drinks, you must use cash.
Photography of
Supai Village or Havasupai people is strictly prohibited.
Dogs, pets, or
other animals are not allowed.
Other Indian Reservation
regulations: No drones, no alcohol, no drugs, no weapons, no rock climbing, no
cliff jumping, no nudity, no amplified music.
Night accommodations:
We spend the
night before our hike at Hualapai Lodge, Peach Spring (highway 66), another nearby
option is at Grand Canyon Caverns (where you take the permit from).
You can also
sleep in Kingsman or Seligman on I-40.
Arriving and Parking at Hilltop:
5 miles before
the end of the road there is a checkpoint for reservation for all people in the
group. Do remember that this is Indian Reservation, and you must flow all the
local rules and regulations.
You need to
provide your license plate number at the permit office and put the approval on
your dashboard.
There few
parking lot at the end of the road but they may be all full and you will need
to park along the road (off the paved road).
Do not park in
the parking area by the helipad (it is only for members of the Havasupai
Tribe).
RV parking is tight,
but you can find some parking spot on the roadside before the main parking
lots.
There is NO
camping at Hilltop. That includes no sleeping in your vehicle at Hilltop.
Mule Service:
It is common to
see that people are using a mule to carry their backpack to the campground and
on the way up.
We did not use
this option and prefer to carry all our stuff in and out so I can’t share a lot
of personal information about this option.
You must
reserve and pay for the mule when you get your permit.
Mule
reservations will be confirmed at check-in. Mule reservations are
non-refundable.
One pack mule
can carry up to four bags and you must pay the round-trip fee.
Once you arrive
to the trailhead go the small office at the last parking lot, the person will tag
your bag and have you drop it outside.
The bag will arrive
at the entrance to the campground.
When we were
there (April 2023) it was not clear if the campground bag collection/drop off
is right at the campground entrance or ¼ of a mile up the river just before the
non-finished bridge.
When you are
going back out up the canyon you need to drop off your luggage at the same
place you picked it up before 7 AM. It will arrive between 11 AM – 1 PM at
Hilltop.
Fly to Havasupai
Helicopter
flights cannot be reserved, it is a first-come first-served basis and tribal
members get priority boarding.
Do NOT make
flight as you only option. Bad weather or other reason can cancel the flights
and you will need to hike.
Helicopters
make the 10-minute journey between Supai Village and Hualapai Hilltop on a
non-stop basis starting at 8am until around the afternoon.
The helicopter lend
in the center of the village, so it is noisy over there all day long.
If you bag weigh
less than 40 pound you can take it with you without extra charge.
Helicopter
Price: I think that in 2023, a one-way helicopter flight was $100.
Hiking notes:
The hike itself
to the campsite is 10 miles long, it is not over challenging and most people
that are in shape can do it. The only challenge section is when you climb up
from the lower river canyon to the hilltop on your way back.
Another challenging
section is the way down to Mooney Falls, this may be over the ability for
people with fear of heights or non-stable walking. But this section is not
mandatory and you can enjoy the visit without climbing this section (second
day).
The trail is well
maintained and clear, mainly loss gravel and sand, desert trail with some rock
sections. A total roundtrip elevation change of nearly one mile.
On your day of
departure, you must start hiking out from the parking lot no later 2 pm.
Plan on 5-6
hours for the hike in and 5-7 hours for the hike out.
You need to have about 3 Liter per person for your hike.
Water is NOT
available at the trailhead or along the trail first 8 miles.
Depending on
the time of the day you can have shade (more in the early morning) or exposed
to sun sections.
The trail is clear,
and you can’t get lost, follow the trails path in the riverbed and in the
canyon.
Mules and
horses ALWAYS have the right of way.
Be alert and be
aware of your surroundings when they are coming from behind you, clear the
trail to the side and walk to a safe distance from the mules.
The section of
trail between the Hilltop Trailhead and the Village of Supai is closed each
night between sunset and 4:00 a.m., night hiking is NOT permitted.
Early morning
hiking is recommended, especially during the hot summer months to avoid the
peak heat of the day.
Campsite:
You must stay
at the campground area of the canyon (2 miles after the village) or the lodge.
Camping anywhere else is illegal.
The campground is
about mile long on both sides of the river. You can cross the river over logs or
shallow water in few locations.
This is not
marked tent-site campground; you do not get a campsite number with your hiking
reservation.
You are welcome
to set up camp anywhere within the Campground area that is safe and respectful
of the land and your fellow campers.
In many
campsites you will find a camping table.
To find your
campsite just walk and look for empty camping spot.
You can camp
near the river but then you will have stronger noise from the running water.
For most of the
campground area there are trees, and you will have less trees as you walk down
the river.
Most people
stay at the first section of the campground, it is nicer, near large restrooms
and the spring. If you want less people around walk to the far side of the
campground.
There are restrooms
in the campground, located in 3 points along the way.
There is a
spring (Fern Spring) that you can fill your water. I saw that people are not
filtering the spring water, but I always filter my water.
You can also
filter the water from the river.
Gas canister
backpacking cooking stoves are ok, but all other types of flame/fire are NOT
permitted.
No campfire is allowed.
We did saw that rangers allowing people to do campfire to get rid of access
trees after the flooding.
While there are
NOT any bears in Havasupai, there are plenty of other critters that will be
relentless in their attempts to get into your food and trash. You are
responsible for not letting them do so.
Do not feed ANY
animals when visiting Havasupai (including local dogs).
Respect quiet
Hours from 8:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m.
You need to
bring all camping gear with you, the tribe does not offer or sell tents,
sleeping bags or other camping supplies.
This is a flash
flood area, and such floods can happen.
It is more
expected to have floods in the canyons during the summer Monsoon season
(usually July through September) but it can also happened during the winter
months.
During March
2023, 3 weeks before our April 2023 visit, there was a river flood that overrun
the campsite and people had to evacuate to higher ground.
If you hear or
see flood waters approaching, get to high ground immediately and wait until it
clears.
My thoughts:
This hike was
in my backet list for many years, but I knew it is challenging to get permit to
hike here, especially after being closed for almost 2 years during Covid.
Our good friend
ask me if he will manage to get permit, we can join them ?
My short answer
was: “say when and we will be there”.
There is no doubt
that this is one of the most beautiful places I visit in north America and
doing this with my wife (her first real backpacking trip) and good friends just
added to the experience.
Amazing waterfalls
in a perfect remote location, outdoors, hiking, wife, and friends, you just can’t
ask for more.
Important links:
https://www.havasupaireservations.com/public/login
https://theofficialhavasupaitribe.com/
https://help.havasupaireservations.com/hc/en-us/articles/11843310734356--Havasupai-Tribal-Council-Notice-December-23-2022
https://www.facebook.com/HavasupaiTribeTourismOfficial
https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/havasupai.htm
Our 3 Days Hike:
All Campground
Reservations are 4 Days / 3 Nights, but we had to shorten our stay for only 2
nights (3 days) and our friends will stay for another day.
Day 1:
10.5
miles, total descent of 2,200 ft, 7 hours.
Day 2:
5.8 miles, total 1,200 ft down and up, 6.5 hours.
Day 3:
10.5
miles, total ascent of 2,200 ft, 5 hours.
The hiking, Distances from Supai
Village:
Navajo Falls: 0.8
mile.
Havasu Falls
and Campground: 2 miles (estimated 45-minute hike)
Mooney Falls: 3
miles
Beaver Falls: 6
miles
Colorado River:
11 miles
Day before the hike:
We arrived at Peach
Springs area around 6pm in the afternoon and the Grand Canyon Caverns reservation
office was already close.
We organized our
backpacks with all what is needed for 3-4 days hiking.
Our First Day:
We started our
day at 8am in Grand Canyon Caverns Hotel, getting our permits.
We drove for
about 1 hour and look for parking spot at the trailhead.
After making
sure all is in the backpack we started our hike, it was about 10:30am.
We had clear sky,
and it was hot but not too much.
From the
trailhead at Hilltop the trail start descending into the river below you.
For the first
mile and a half it is descending 1200 ft into Havasu River wash.
The first
section of the trail down is series of switchbacks but after less than a mile
it is continuing in a straight line all the way to the wash.
From this point
the trail follow the wash and it is relatively flat with constant slope down.
Once the trail
start to get into the red stone layer it start to be more like a canyon.
The trail follow
the canyon floor for several miles where in some sections the tall red canyon
wall are relatively narrow and in other it is opening.
After 6 miles
from the trailhead, you will see large clear sign indicating you are arriving Havasupai
reservation.
Here take the
left side of the canyon and soon after you will reach the confluence with the
river coming from the right.
Here you will
get into tree section near the river and the trail head to the left.
After short
hike you will reach a fence, keep hiking near the fence and you will see a
large new bridge crossing the river to the other side.
After the
bridge the wide dirt road trail leads to Supai Village.
After short
hike you will come to the point where the trail enter the village. Here you
need to be you face masks and you are asked not to take pictures in the village.
After 7.5 miles
from your hike starting point you will reach Supai Village center.
Here you can
find the general store, caffe and the post office as well as the helicopter
landing area.
We stopped for
a refreshment stop at the caffe.
After short break
we keep on hiking.
The wide trail
exit the village, after about 1 mile you will see the first waterfalls on your
left, Fifty-Foot Falls.
There is a
trail climbing down to the upper section of the waterfall.
There is also a
narrow path in the bushes that can lead you to the base of the waterfalls.
From here the trail level up where the river get into a short canyon section, in this section there is another waterfall, Navajo Falls.
After short walk the trail turn left
and descending back to the river level.
Here you will
need to cross the river to the other side on a semi-improvise bridge (the main
bridge does not exist). Although the bridge is not level it looks like it is
stable.
Short walk after
the bridge you can find places that are selling drinks and food.
Soon after you
will start to walk down on the left side of the canyon, and you will witness
for the first time the amazing view of the 150-ft tall Havasu waterfall.
And, what an
amazing view !
The blue-turquoise-green
water plunge the high waterfall into the pool where it surrounded by the brown-red
rocks cliffs.
The water are
getting their turquoise color from the clay minerals.
You can walk
down to the waterfall base and the trees below you or you can keep walking to
the campground that is right ahead of you.
In the
campground section I wrote a lot of notes and information about the campground.
The large buildings
on your right are the restrooms.
Once you are
getting into the campground forest look for a place to camp.
Short walk and
you will see a sign pointing to the left into the direction of Fern Springs
where you can fill up fresh water.
Find you
campsite, preferable with a table and get organized.
This is the
time to relax, stretch your lag, rest from the 10 miles hike and explore the nearby
river.
Later before sunset
you can walk back and enjoy Havasu falls again.
After preparing
our dinner, it went dark and we went to sleep relatively early, tired from the
early start and long hike.
Overall, we
hiked 10.5 miles the first day, total descent of 2,200 ft, and it took us with
all stops 7 hours of easy walking.
Second hiking day:
This day was
dedicated to exploring the lower waterfalls Mooney and Beaver down the canyon.
After breakfast
we started with our hike down the river, we pass the 1-mile campground aria. As
you progress there are less trees and less in this area.
Right after the
campground you will reach the top of Mooney Falls.
The trail is
heading to the left side of the waterfall, and you will see the warning signs.
To get to the
base of Mooney Fall you need to walk and pass steep steps sections, short tunnels,
and tall wooden ladder, getting hold on metal chains to prevent you from
falling.
The lower
section of the steep rock and ladder gets sprayed with mist from Mooney Falls.
Unless you are afraid
of heights this is a cool and fun section of the trail.
Be patient here,
this is one way section, and you need to let people going in the opposite
direction their opportunity and do not stress people who are less experienced or
challenged with fear of heights.
Watch your step
and progress slowly down, it can be unpleasant if you will fall down.
Usually in the
morning people are going down this path and climbing up at the afternoon.
When we hiked here,
we found many rubber gloves that help with holding the wet rock or the chains. We
took them on the way back and left them on the base of the ladder, the same
when we came up at the afternoon.
Mooney Falls
drops about 200 ft into a large blue pool. Because it is nested in the surrounding
cliffs this waterfall is less photogenic compared to Havasu Falls.
We manage to
get down and from there we start to hike alongside the river.
After short
walk we reach our first river crossing.
You can change
here to water shoes (or sandals) or just hike with your shoes.
The trail is crossing
to the other bank and follow the river downstream.
After another short
hike you need to cross the river again. The trail going to the left, you are
walking here in a high vegetation area that can block the trail and at some point,
you will need to cross a creek with narrow but short wooden bridge.
After about 1.5
miles from Mooney Waterfall the trail crosses the river for the last time.
Soon after the
last river crossing you will walk under a palm tree and here you will see that
the trail continue over the water with a flat wooden ladder and from here you
need to climb on aluminum ladder that is hooked into the rocks.
Here we saw from
above 4 large Big Horne Sheep eating grass on the river front.
After the
ladders the trail keep climbing over the rocks to the plateau above the river
level. The landscape here is different from the river canyon below, this is
more like the local desert with growing cactus.
Few simpler to
pass obstacles and you will see for the first time the Beaver Falls from above.
I must admit that from above, partly hidden by the trees, they are not
impressive so much.
Walk to the
right and climb down the cliff using the last broken wooden ladder for this hike.
Walk to the
right and find your way down to the base of Beaver Falls.
From the river
level Beaver Falls are much more impressive.
Beaver Falls is
a series of large waterfalls that the water is being dammed by sediment rocks
that create the large and deep pools.
This is the
perfect place to relax and swim and enjoy the waterfall view.
There is not so
much shade here and there are many other people so try to find your spot.
Stay here as
much as you want but do remember that you need to hike back up to the
campground before it is getting dark.
From Beaver
Falls there is a 5 miles long trail leading to the Colorado River confluence,
but we did not try it, so I do not have any information about this trail.
After our stay
here we start our hike back.
On our way we
saw again the 4 Big Horn sheep, this time up close near the trail. It looks
like that they are used to people and do not run away.
We kept hiking
and after crossing the river few times we arrived at the base of Mooney Falls.
We climbed up
the ladder and the cliff section, walking up is much simpler and faster than
going down.
From the top of
the waterfall, we walked back a mile to our campsite.
Although shorter
in length we felt more tired today compared to the first day, maybe this was
because we were already tired.
This day hike
was almost 6 miles, total 1,200 ft down and up, and it took us 6.5 hours
including almost 1 hour at Beaver Falls.
We rest for the
evening, made our dinner, and prepare our stuff for the following morning.
Third hiking day:
The third, and
last, day morning we woke up 5:40, just before sunrise.
We had a long
day a head of us, we need to walk back up to the trailhead, drive south to Phoenix
AZ and make sure my wife catch the afternoon flight back home.
We get organize
quickly and quietly in our campsite.
Putting back
all our stuff (tent, pads and sleeping bags) back into our backpacks.
Say goodbye to
our friends, we started to hike back exactly at 6am.
Passing on our
way up the Navajo Falls, seeing their beauty for the last time.
From here we
were walking fast, passing through the village and up the river. Turning right
into the dry canyon on our way up.
We arrive at
the base of the steep climb up after 3:40 hours. After a short rest we start
climbing, it was almost 10am and it was already hot. Doing this climb during
summer when it is 110f it is a lot more challenging.
We walked slow
and with few stops, caring our heavy backpacks where most of the other groups where
hiking with light day backpack.
After one hour
we arrived at the top of the trail parking lot, this was exactly 5 hours from the
camp.
We put our
stuff in the car and start heading out.
From here we
drove for about 1.5 hours to Seligman. Here we eat our breakfast + lunch at Westside
Lilo's Café, this was exactly what we needed.
Short stop for refuel
and additional 3 hours’ drive to Phoenix airport.
I drop my wife
on time at the airport and headed back north to continue my road-trip at Sedona.
This multi-day hike
to Havasu Falls is one of my most enjoying hike and unique experience, to me
and my wife.
If you can do
it I’m sure this will be amazing experience you will not forget.
Additional Pictures:
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