Zion National Park – The Subway Hike

Introduction:

What? :

The Subway hike in Zion National Park is one of the park's most iconic destinations.

The bottom-up route that I did is an approximately 8 miles out and back hike with 1,300 ft of elevation gain and it will take you between 4-6 hours to complete.

The hike follows the Left Fork of North Creek where you are walking in the water for long sections and at the end of it you will reach a spectacular tube-like slot canyon carved by running water.

It is absolutely important to understand that a Wilderness Permit is required for both the technical (top-down) and non-technical (bottom-up) routes.

This is relatively a strenuous hike, involved with short but very steep descend & ascend and off-trail walking in the riverbed experience, not a simple hike.

The following description focuses on the Bottom-Up Route, which is the non-technical hiking option.

Where? :

The hike begins and ends at the Left Fork Trailhead, located on the Kolob Terrace Road.

Drive to the town of Virgin, UT, which is on Utah State Route 9 (UT-9), 13.2 mile (20 min drive) west of the main Zion Canyon entrance.

In Virgin, turn North onto the Kolob Terrace Road (well-signed). Follow Kolob Terrace Road climbing up for approximately 8.2 miles.

Soon after getting into the Zion National Park area the Left Fork Trailhead parking lot will be on your right (East) side.

It is relatively a small parking area and can get full during the morning hours when people start their hike. You can find parking spots off the main road.

Google Map Link

When? :

The park is open year-round but winter snow storms and cold weather may be challenging.

Kolob Terrace Road is subject to seasonal closures due to snow, typically from late fall to early spring. If there is a snow storm check at the visitor center if the trailhead is accessible and what are the snow/ice conditions.

Warning:

Remember that you must cross and walk in the water and the slot canyon section may be covered with ice.

Warning:

During the summer months and winter this area can also be prone to flash floods, so be mindful of rain and talk to park rangers before heading out on the trip.

For a Beautiful Nature Prints - Visit my Etsy Store

How to Get Hiking Permit:

A Wilderness Permit is mandatory and due to the high demand and limited quota (around 80 people per day), securing a permit is the most difficult part of this trip.

Commercial guiding is NOT allowed.

Permits are secured through the National Park Service (NPS) via Recreation.gov.

There are two primary ways to obtain a permit:

A. Seasonal Lottery (Advance Reservation):

When to Apply: You apply four months in advance of your desired entry month (e.g., apply in January for a May trip).

Process: You enter a lottery for up to four possible dates. If successful, you receive a reservation, which must then be converted to a physical permit.

B. Daily Lottery (Last-Minute Reservation):

When to Apply: This lottery is for any remaining or unclaimed slots. Applications are submitted two days prior to your desired trip date.

Process: The lottery opens at 12:01 AM and closes at 3:00 PM MDT two days before your trip. Results are emailed at 4:00 PM MDT that same day.

C. Walk-in Permits (this is what I did):

Any remaining unclaimed slots from the above lotteries may be available for walk-in pickup the day before or the day of the hike at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center Wilderness Desk, but this is highly unlikely for such a popular route.

Permit Pickup: You must pick up your physical Wilderness Permit in person at a Zion Wilderness Permit Station (in the Zion Canyon Visitor Center) the day of your hike.

You will get from the ranger a safety and regulation explanation.

Important note:

You need to carry a paper copy of your permit in your backpack and leave a copy in your car dashboard at the trailhead parking lot.

Due note 1:

Bring water for a day hike (at least 3-4 liters per person) and also carry food for the day with you. I think that you can’t drink the river water, even with a filter, it is unsafe due to bacteria.

Due note 2:

You must come with good close hiking shoes, I do not recommend sandals, crocs or alike, you want good tight holding to your feet.

Ware pants that can get wet and you can still hike in them when they are wet (shorts are a good option).

Hiking pools are recommended for helping with balance when walking on the slippery rocks.

You can rent water hiking equipment the day before your hike in Springdale, I used my regular hiking shoes and it was good.

Due note 3:

Restrooms are located at the trailhead shuttle stop.

No cell reception anywhere in the canyon. Download the hike map prior to driving to the trailhead.

Due note 4:

Non-Technical. No ropes or rappelling are required, but it is physically demanding.

Due note 5:

Although not deep enough you can fall into the stream water, you can put your water sensitive items (camera, wallet, car key, phone, food,...) in a waterproof bag.

Due note 6:

Check water level or summer flush floods warning at the visitor center.

The hiking conditions may vary depending on the water level and current flow.

When hiking with kids make sure they are always safe.

Due note 7:

Pets are not allowed on hiking trails in Zion National Park.

Due note 8:

Depending on when you start, if it is during morning most of the hike is in the shade canyon, if later the sun is right above the canyon and it is getting very hot, especially during the summer months. You can get cool by getting into the swimming holes.

Bring a hat and sunglasses.

Due note 9:

Distance measurement with GPS may not be accurate in narrow and deep slot canyons.

Due note 10:

Although the number of hikers each day is limited to 80 it gets crowded at the Subway section during mid-day.

Due note 11:

Hiking the river in the dark is very slow and not safe, plan for extra time so you will complete your hike during daylight hours.

In any case bring Headlamp/Flashlight, a long day can easily end in the dark.

Due note 12:

The Top-Down Route: This is a 9.5-mile one-way technical canyoneering route requiring ropes, harnesses, rappelling skills, and often a full wetsuit due to unavoidable, deep, and extremely cold swims. This option requires a higher canyoning skill level.

It requires a car shuttle to the trailhead up Colob road.

I did not hike it so I can’t provide any other information.

My thoughts:

Even without the slot canyon sections this is a fun hike !

It starts with a very steep descent/ascent near the trailhead, followed by miles of hiking, wading, and scrambling up the streambed of the Left Fork of North Creek. When I hiked here (mid Sep.) the water level was low but you will get wet up to your knees.

The Subway canyon itself is thoroughly breathtaking, nature art and beauty.

There were others here but it was not crowded, I waited patiently for the people leaving and I had the canyon without others.

What a hike ! I was not disappointed !

The Hike:

I did the bottom-up route so this is what I will provide information on.

This hike was on my “to do” list for many years and I finally managed to hike it.

This was at the end of a 2 weeks road / park trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons parks in Wyoming and I thought to myself it will be fun to hike here as a trip finale.

I arrived near Zion the night before and went to sleep at the Smithsonian Butte Area, not far from the town of Rockville, UT.

The following morning I woke up at 6am and drove to the park visitor center.

I waited patiently near the wilderness office (main Zion visitor center) at 6:45am.

The doors were open at 8am and by then there were about 20 people waiting in line for the office opening. I was the first one there and the first that got the hiking permit for that day.

I drove for about 30 min to the trailhead and started my hike.

The 9 miles out and back hike and at high level you can divide it into three sections: the steep descent, the long creek hike, and the final push to The Subway.

Descent to the Creek (Approx. 0.7 miles)

The hike begins with a walk of about a half-mile along a relatively flat path through a pine forest.

The trail reaches the canyon edge and you can see the Left Fork of North Creek canyon below you.

From here the trail abruptly hits the steepest and difficult section going down into the canyon. This section involved loose gravel, high rocky steps, and semi-unmaintained descent.

The trail is clear and you can’t get lost.

After about 400 feet of slow walking down you will get to the bed of the Left Fork of North Creek.

Look around and make a mental note of this location. Some people on their way back forget to climb here and keep walking in the canyon for a long time until they understand they made a mistake.

Phase 2: The Left Fork Streambed (Approx. 3.0 miles)

Once you reach the creek, the defined trail ends. The creek is your trail for the next several miles.

In some sections there is a clear trail on one of the banks and you will be crossing the stream countless times.

The water level can be ankle-to-knee-deep, and scrambling over large boulders. This is a more challenging hike compared to the Narrows trail.

There is no official trail. You must constantly look for the path of least resistance, and try to find the path that people before you created.

Accept the information you will be wet and walk in the stream.

This is a slow hike section where you need to find the best hike, some time in the water, some time over rocks, and to be careful not to sleep and hurt yourself.

Do remember that during all the river walk you will climb up the canyon (gain about 800 ft of elevation) and you get to the Subway at a higher elevation than the trailhead.

As you continue upstream, you will start to see the red and canyon walls narrow and grow taller.

The canyon narrows significantly, and you will enter a beautiful section known as the Red Ledges Cascades.

This is a series of small, stunning cascading waterfalls where the water flows over bright red and rock. Surprisingly, although walking in the water over the waterfall this is not a slippery section.

This is a sign you are approaching the highlight of the hike.

Phase 3: The Subway

You will eventually arrive at the iconic "Subway tunnel” opening.

This is not a tunnel but the narrow canyon is open from above and wide at its bottom section.

Here, the water flows through a deeply cut slot canyon in the red rock, curved in its bottom with a relatively large round long chamber.

Once you get inside you will see the famous Emerald Pools. A perfect pool for cold water swim.

Walk slowly not to fall and circle around the deep round pools.

The bottom-up route typically ends at a large pool that right after it there is a waterfall.

You can get into the water and swim to the far side and see the small waterfall.

You cannot proceed past this point without canyoneering equipment.

At the opening of the canyon there are dry places where you can eat, drone and take a rest.

After enjoying your time here, swimming or just enjoying the view of the Subway and probably taking many pictures you need to turn around and follow the creek back down.

This is a long hike down from here but you will probably be extremely happy from the Subway view and know what to expect for.

Be extremely careful when walking back, you will probably move faster (downhill), you do not want to sleep and get injured.

Remember not to miss the steep, loose exit gully back up to the canyon rim on the right (north) side of the creek. If you are walking in the stream focus on the walking you can miss that.